Anna Staropoli — A Geographic Diary

In a year where cafe culture has been reduced to takeout orders and outdoor lawn chairs, it’s comforting to think about the spaces and people who welcomed me with open arms and full mugs. While many Italians down espressos at the bar, others (like myself) tend to dawdle, nursing a mug/bowl/cup/plate of whatever extends the morning. My fondest memories of Palermo are not of the flashy museums or elaborate palaces but of the quiet moments I spent in the places below, moments that let me absorb the ambiance of something so inherently local. As I found my routine, I befriended the owners, waiters, and bartenders at the heart of these Palermitani staples. These friendships came in the form of daily small talk, discounted pastries, and patient exchanges of the Italian language. If only all friendships offered the same…

The energy and warmth that goes into these cafes is infectious, and there’s something incredibly comforting and hospitable about these places that have defined my version of Palermo. I’m still trying to understand how something as simple as a cup of coffee and a flaky pastry can yield such a strong community, but I think it’s far less complex than making an espresso. All those cliches about food and bonding, shared meals and shared interactions? Sometimes they’re true. Below, you’ll find my recommendations for the best of the best cafes in Palermo:

I can’t say enough kind things about Cioccolateria Lorenzo. A few blocks from my apartment, this cafe is both an indoor and outdoor oasis, with the best tiramisu I’ve yet to find in Italy. Entirely family run, Cioccolateria Lorenzo feels like a home has been opened, with the father working the counter, the mother making the chocolate, and the child — presumably Lorenzo — running around the shop after school. I spent many days in here drafting my novel, so by the time my cappuccino cup emptied, I knew I’d finished my scenes for the day. It was easy to get into a writing headspace when my surroundings were so consistent, drawing me back into my imaginary world. When it came time to leave, I saved this goodbye for one of my very last days. The owners recommended chocolates for me and I hauled an assorted to-go box all across the U.K. on my quest to get them home. Rest assured, they made it back to North America, however squished.

Try: tiramisu, any of the cakes on display, a cappuccino

Cakes and Cappuccinos at Ciocolaterria Lorenzo

Just outside the gate that encloses the city center, Pasticceria Capello is nothing to look at. Inside, it’s another story. Known for the best cannoli in Palermo, Pasticceria Capello is as Italian as it gets, and once you maneuver around the language barrier, you’ll find its staff incredibly friendly and excited to share the art of their pastry. Located between Palazzo Reale and the Catacombs, Pasticceria Capello is an easy stop on a standard tourist itinerary and the sweetest way to the start the day.

Try: cannoli, setteveli (chocolate seven layer cake)

Capello’s Cannoli, Cassata, and Setteveli

Get granita at Casa Stagnitta, a cafe on the edge of a main palazzo. While known for its coffee, Stagnitta has the best brioche and granita I’ve yet to find, and I spent many a morning people-watching with my dessert-for-breakfast.

Try: almond granita, pistachio granita, any granita

A blink-or-you’ll-miss-it blip on Palermo’s main drag, Cafetteria Del Corso is not what it appears to be. With no flashy sign and limited seating (there are only two outdoor tables), nothing distinguishes this pit stop from the others leading toward the cathedral. But go inside and you’ll find Pino, the kindest man in all of Palermo, who runs the cafe entirely by himself and makes granita on the daily. Always grateful to those who stop in, Pino serves his food with an infectious happiness that makes you wonder whether a simple life truly is the recipe for success. As Palermo is a city that stays up late, I often took advantage of Pino’s early hours (he opens at 6:30 am!) and would enjoy a coffee granita on the still streets.

Try: coffee granita con panna (whipped cream), brioche

Always bustling, Antico Caffè Spinnato is a place of organized chaos. Serving savory treats in addition to standard cafe fare (coffee, granita, gelato, pastries), Spinnato is best visited around apertivo time, where you can enjoy an aperol spritz in the glow of its outdoor square. I found this place right before the holidays and loved how festive it became, with decorations, music, and an assortment of panettone. Although a large eatery, there’s something incredibly intimate about Spinnato’s atmosphere that makes it worth its sit-down cover charge.

Try: cappuccino, aperol spritz, arancine

In the middle of Ballarò market, Caffetteria Maria offers a show with your drink, as its outdoor seating places patrons in the middle of the market madness. I tried a ricotta ciambelle as I watched a broccoli vendor woo customers across the way.

Try: coffee, anything with ricotta

Way, way out of the city center, New Paradise feels exceptionally trendy, with Instagram-worthy photos of dripping pistachio cream and out-of-the-box offerings like dessert riceballs. I frequented a church that was an hour’s walk from my apartment and would stop here along the way to fuel up before the remainder of my trek. The prettiest pastries I’ve yet to find in Palermo, New Paradise is the local, hipster cafe intended to win locals over with decadent offerings and over-the-top renditions of Sicilian classics.

Try: anything pistachio

Courtesy of New Paradise’s pistachio fountain

Community And Cafe Culture: Palermo's Best Coffee Breaks